Christmas Day in the City of Light

Signs of the holiday season were all over Paris in the days before Christmas. Laura was particularly delighted with these "recycled" trees made with Sprite (green), Badoit (red), and Coke (clear) bottles, just behind Hôtel de Ville, which is near our apartment.

We needed our own tree, of course, and we found a tiny one in an odd little discount shop in Le Marais. There were larger (and much more expensive) trees at the Monoprix, which is something like Target. The Monoprix is your one stop shop for groceries (alimentation, in the basement), sundries, household items, and clothing.

We woke up on Christmas morning and found cadeaux under our tree. Voilà! Santa came to Paris!

Our plan was to take a walk, which turned out to be a trek spanning many an arrondissement, and then spend a quiet day at home. We started our journey by hoofing it along rue de Rivoli to the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel just outside of the Louvre.

We strolled about and took some photos in le Jardin des Tuileries, which is located between the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde.

Laura managed to capture a photo of a bird in flight over the grass.

After some sky gazing at Tuilieries, we headed over to Place Vendome to check out the holiday decorations and whatnot over there. We also walked into a fancy hotel there and feigned guest-like expressions in order to use the, ahem, facilities located across the lobby and opposite the main doors. Place Vendome is beautiful even by day, and I imagine it would be quite spectacular when lit up at night.

Next we strolled over to Palais Royal to do some window shopping. How on Earth would I have resisted this red Yeti outfit had the shop been open?

We stopped to rest our feet and have some hot chocolate. I love this picture of Laura and a random French woman sitting on either side of the café window. Laura is immersed in her thoughts and game inside, contrasted by the woman immersed in her thoughts and cigarette outside.

We made another brief stop on Pont Neuf to rest our feet and take in the view along the Seine.

Here we paused for a photo in front of the Christmas tree outside of Notre Dame.

We went inside because I felt the need to go to church on Christmas, and where better to do it in Paris than Notre Dame? Also, we had seen the lovely crèche minus the baby Jesus before Christmas. I wanted to see him nestled in his tiny manger bed.

While we were there, we happened upon an organ recital that was just beginning, and we managed to find three seats. We did not stay until the end of the recital because we were all in need of the "toilette," water, and food, although it was tempting to me to gut it out to be able to experience the mass that was to follow the recital.

Thinking that everything in Paris would be closed for the holiday, we laid in a few simple supplies for our Christmas dinner. Much to our surprise, however, when we were out walking we found many cafés and shops open for business. Once home we had a meal of quiche (Lorraine for Tom and me, fromage for Laura), fingerling potatoes roasted in butter and salt, a simple lettuce and tomato salad, and a crusty baguette, of course. For dessert we heated individual chocolate souffles that we had purchased on Christmas Eve from a local patisserie, which we ate with a boule de glace chocolat (scoop of chocolate ice cream) on the side. Christmas in Paris will always hold a special place in our hearts for many reasons, not the least of which is because we topped it off with French chocolate.

Dining with Cats and Dogs in Paris

The Avenue des Champs-Élysées is nicknamed “La Plus Belle Avenue du Monde” (the most beautiful avenue in the world). It is home to many exclusive stores, although in recent years the likes of H&M have been allowed a place on the block. Also, along with Louis Vuitton, Guerlain, Hugo Boss, and Cartier, you will find a Disney Store, Gap, and Nike.

As we strolled along the avenue, we stopped for an impromptu meal at Café George V, and were offered the table by the cat. Yes, indeed, there was a nook above a corner table, upon which was a cat all nestled in her bed. She lazily lifted her head as though she could barely be bothered to see who would deign to decline dining near her. But for me, an alternate table meant that I didn't have to sneeze my way through grilled steak and frites. Apparently the French take their pets seriously because a few nights later we dined in a very nice restaurant next to a woman who had her little white poodle at the table with her.

For the holiday season, from the end of November through early January, the Champs-Élysées is famous for its lights. On one of our earlier trips (I think in 1994, with Kristen and Courtney), the trees were filled with white lights. This year the lights are in tubes and change color throughout the evening.

Also during the holidays, street merchants are set up in temporary huts or kiosks, selling food, drinks, souvenirs, and all manner of cadeaux (gifts) from kitchen items to clothing. Not just during the holidays, in the center of the Place de la Concorde, stands an Egyptian obelisk that once was at the entrance of the Luxor Temple, with hieroglyphics praising Ramses II. It is stunning at night when lit. Near the obelisk is a Ferris wheel set up for holiday visitors and Parisians alike, the view from which is amazing. The cost to ride it probably accounts for the short queue we encountered.

Apparently the Champs-Élysées is a favored spot for French celebrations and parades, impromptu and planned. I read somewhere that German troops marched down it in 1940 to celebrate France’s fall, and, similarly, American troops marched down it some four years later to celebrate France’s liberation. The Tour de France has ended on the Champs-Élysées every year since 1975. Fewer and fewer residents live on the avenue due to high real estate prices, although the president of France lives there in Palais de l'Élysée. Today it is mostly comprised of luxury retail, dining, and office space.

From various spots along the Champs-Élysées, the Eiffel Tower can be seen, and it is particularly lovely at night. On the hour, the Tower sparkles and twinkles for about five minutes. Here is a thirty second or so video of the Eiffel Tower aglitter taken from the Place de la Concorde:

The Champs-Élysées is over a mile long and stretches from Place de la Concorde at the Louvre, home of the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel (the smallest of the three arches), to Place Charles de Gaulle, where the more well-known Arc de Triomphe de l'Étoile sits. It is possible to purchase a billet (ticket) and climb to the top of the Arc de Triomphe to take in the view. This means climbing a total of 284 steps, most of which are spiral and in a very narrow well. Holy claustrophobia and aerobic exercise! On the particular day that we did this, the reward at the top was wind, rain, and clouds. But still. I thought it was pretty awesome once I'd been resuscitated.

The smaller Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel and the larger (and modern) La Grande Arche de La Défense can be seen from the top of the Arc de Triomphe de l'Étoile, by looking one way and then the opposite. In other words, the three arches line up in size across the city. During our 2004 visit, Laura wanted to start at the small one and work her way up, which we did. This trip, having already visited the first two arches in size, Laura wants to go see the Grande Arche and take the elevator to the top. Shout out for elevators! More on this, Christmas Day in Paris, and our trip to Disneyland Paris to come.

Pieds non Joyeux!

I am back at my post in the kitchen of our Paris apartment, drinking coffee while Tom and Laura sleep. In the past couple of days we’ve covered a lot of ground here in the City of Light. Laura says she loves Paris, but her feet do not.

We have had a nice time visiting the family of one of Laura’s friends from her former school. They are living an adventure in Paris for a year, the children attending schools here as Tom once did when he was a little boy. We met them for ice skating at Hôtel de Ville, followed by a lunch of crepes, grilled steak, frites, and whatnot in a nearby café. Hôtel de Ville is the City Hall of Paris. Across rue de Rivoli from Hôtel de Ville is a large department store called BHV (Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville), part of the Lafayette chain.

The animated window displays at BHV are lively to say the least, modeled after those at Printemps, which we visited yesterday. Printemps is a very grand department store in the Opera-Haussmann District, comprised of eleven levels including the roof terrace (although numbered as nine because the French call the first floor zero and the basement -1). There are three buildings across the street from one another and connected by bridges on the second and third levels (which would be our third and fourth, because we count the first and not the basement; oui?). The expansive city view from the roof terrace is amazing.

We did some shopping at Printemps yesterday amidst the throngs of bustling Parisians who seemed to pause only outside of the doors to puff away on cigarettes. There is no smoking indoors in public places these days, which does not please the French, but I can assure you that we like it a lot. When we were here in 2004 with Laura, Christian Lacroix had designed the Printemps window displays, and Laura was so captivated by them that we got her one of the featured plush animals, which she still has. This year the windows are Chanel themed, and one of them has a dozen or so miniature Karl Lagerfelds dancing about. Dashing though he may be, none of us wanted to take home a mini Karl. Rather than me fiddling with uploading the video that I took, you can see the animated Lagerfeld window by clicking here, if you like.

In addition to shopping and eating, we have taken in more sights. We visited the Louvre, which is so vast in size, rich in lore, and brimming with famous works of art that it requires a post of its own. The day after we visited the Louvre, we headed over to Montparnasse, where Laura’s friend Lauren lives to pick her up so the girls could spend some time together. We strolled by lovely shops such as Louis Vuitton and Dior, and then ducked inside Saint Germain des Prés, which we’re told is the oldest church in the city. We grabbed lunch in a crowded café and then took a boat ride along the Seine. We stopped for crepes and then headed back to our apartment so the girls could rest while Tom and I explored our neighborhood some more. Later we met Lauren’s family for dinner in an Italian restaurant in Le Marais that we remembered from our prior visits for its wonderful service. The owners fussed over Lauren’s littlest sister the way that only an angel-faced child with blonde hair gets fussed over by Europeans who have different boundaries than Americans and don’t take hints. Lauren’s little sister held up pretty well.

Yesterday, we visited the Musée d'Orsay, which happens to be my favorite, especially for the Impressionist paintings and Degas’ ballerinas. There are no photographs allowed inside of the museum, but I snapped a picture of Laura outside on the steps in the same spot I photographed her in 2004.

We have no grand adventures planned for today and tomorrow, Christmas Eve and Day. But it is our simple and unplanned adventures that often turn out to be the most memorable. We obtained a small Christmas tree for our apartment. No doubt Père Noël will visit us here. We gathered from several vendors in Saint-Paul fresh produce, baked goods, pâté, cheeses, and such like for our Christmas meals. We think that we may take it slowly for the next day or two so that Laura’s feet can rest up and then enjoy Paris as much as she has been.

Joyeux Noël!

Then and Now Again

Champs-Élysées 2004

Champs-Élysées 2011

Then and Now

Laura in “the Cave” (the cellar) at Pain Vin Fromage in 1994 2004 (with her grandparents) and in 2011.

Laura at Sacre Coeur in Montmartre in 1994 2004 and in 2011.

Laura at the Arc du Carrousel near the Louvre in 1994 2004 and at the Arc de Triomphe on Champs-Élysées in 2011.

Edited: Laura was here in 2004 and 2011! Kristen and Courtney were here with us in 1994. (Cheri needs to get more sleep before captioning pictures.)

There is No Such Thing as a Chocolate Croissant!

This waking up before everyone else, drinking coffee, eating toasted brioche, and writing could become a habit.

The weather was sunny and clear yesterday, cordially supporting our desire to see Paris from the top of Tour Eiffel. The Eiffel Tower was completed in 1889 to be used as the entrance to the World's Fair that year, is named for its designer Gustave Eiffel, and stands 1,063 feet tall.

In addition to the view the view the view, the Eiffel Tower has shops, dining, and an ice rink in the winter months. Laura’s pictures paint a thousand words about the view. Can you spot L'arc de triomphe? Notre Dame?

Laura also took some photographs from the ground. I especially like her study of contrast through the trees in the morning and afternoon (photos at the top of this post). Also, the photographs that she took of the tower when it was first lit in the early evening hours against a deep blue sky are glorious (just below).

Following a day of taking in the city view, walking, riding the Metro, and shopping (Laura and I knew that Tom needed a black cashmere scarf, and now he has one, voilà!), we dined at Le Dome du Marais, a place I recommended in a 2008 blog post. The restaurant sports a domed ceiling in the main room that changes throughout the evening, casting lovely luminescent shades of color over the room.

The meal was superb. Laura and I shared burrata with tomato and basil, followed by a mushroom risotto. Tom had pâté de foie gras followed by black cod. The dessert menu is picture below. Tom did not get the Homemade Paris "Brest" (whatever that is), but he did point it out to us with his Beavis and Butthead laugh.

I have been asked if the French people are standoffish. The only difficult encounter we have had so far was in the Metro station with a machine that dispenses billets (tickets). It totally turned up its mechanical nose at each and every one of our credit cards. And just a word of advice: If you want to order a chocolate croissant, don’t say that. Order pain au chocolat (chocolate bread). Otherwise you get a plain croissant and then a cross look when you want to change the order.

Au revoir for now. Car horns down on the street have announced for the umpteenth time this morning that it is time to start the day here.