Veni, Vidi, Vici!
Following our week-long
jolly holiday with the whole family in London, Courtney and I went to Rome for five days while Tom and Laura headed home. I had never been away from any of my children for that long until Kristen and Courtney went to college, and they only got away because faculty members from their respective universities pried them from my Kung Fu grip at freshman orientation. So why did I go? I was invited. Courtney asked me if I would stay a few extra days, and could we go someplace together? I must admit that I was pleased that Courtney wanted to spend time with me, and I’m sure it wasn’t just that the trip would be my treat. Only too soon will Courtney graduate from college, get a job, go to graduate school, get married, and have children (in that order), and so I knew that this just might be that once-in-a-lifetime chance to do something like this with her. Still, my knee-jerk reaction was to think about all of the reasons that it would be “impossible” to go, but after consulting with the Ya-Ya Sisterhood, and with Tom’s sincere assurances that he and Laura would look at it as an adventure during which they could bond and spend quality time together, I booked our flights to, and hotel in, Roma. (Now that I’ve been, I can say Roma.)
Before we left for London, I worried and stewed and planned and prepared. I packed Laura’s snacks for the week and labeled them. I made sure everyone had plenty of clean undies in their dressers. I taught Tom how to scramble an egg. I made lists and instruction sheets. I photographed Laura, took her fingerprints, and collected DNA samples. Tom stood by patiently as I busied myself with this flurry of arrangements. And he lovingly provided all the right answers when I’d spring a pop quiz on him. “What is the name of Laura’s pediatrician?” “What time do you need to pick her up from her piano lesson?” “What is Laura’s blood type?” “Do you still love me?” Long story short, upon my return I was greeted by a happy husband and a cheerful child. Nobody was suffering any signs of malnutrition. Laura was bathed and her nails had been professionally manicured. I have said this many times, and it bears repeating here: If every girl had a man like Tom for a father, the world would be a better place. Women would only pick great men like their fathers to marry, and that way jerks couldn’t breed. It would be evolution at its finest.
Back to Rome. It was a relatively short flight from Heathrow to Fiumicino, with a
breathtaking passage over the Swiss Alps. There is no smoking indoors in Italy, and after a week of getting Black Lung in London, I was quickly reminded How Great Thou Art O Smoke-Free Environment when we entered the airport terminal in Rome. However, we came to find out that here and there Italianos break the rules, and when I pointed out that someone was surreptitiously doing just that in the airport, Courtney dubbed me the “Fumare Police.” I remained steadfast in my duty to sniff out offenders during our stay. Instead of grabbing a taxi, we daringly decided to take a train from the airport to Termini, and even managed to obtain two tickets and get on the correct train. Someone was smoking on the train. ;) The scenery along the way was at turns both charming and distinctive. We took a taxi from Termini to our hotel on Via Veneto to spare us the Metro ride and walk to the hotel with our luggage in tow. Our taxi driver spoke no English, but he understood the name of our hotel and got us there for less than ten euro.
We arrived at our hotel ready for hot showers and real Italian food. It was the night before Easter and we wanted to go to St. Peter’s Square the next day for the noon blessing by the Pope, so we stopped by the concierge’s desk on the way to our room to get a suggestion for dining that night, and for instructions on getting to the Holy See in time for the Papal blessing. The concierge did us one better. Maybe it was Courtney’s long blonde hair, the hair that invoked many calls of “Bella! Bella!” from passersby during our stay in Rome. We were offered two tickets to the candlelit Easter Vigil Mass in St. Peter's Basilica, which would be presided over by Pope Benedict XVI that night. Tickets to any mass led by the Pope are free to the public, but very hard to come by for the average mortal, particularly during Holy Week. The Easter Vigil is the most important mass of the liturgical year in the Roman Catholic Church. Score for the Protestants. After we showered and had a “resto” in our
"elegante" room that was twice the size and half the price of our London digs, we went off for our first of many fabulous meals. This one was comprised of fresh mozzarella with just a smidgeon of herb-infused olive oil, homemade pizza with fresh rosemary,
linguine and clams, gnocchi in tomato sauce, and
Chianti. After we had our fill, it was off to the Vatican. We waited in a long line of ticket holders, while others approached us and begged or offered money for our tickets. After twenty minutes or so, first going through an airport-esque security check, we were admitted to St. Peter’s Basilica.
We gazed in wonder at the rich interior chock full of paintings and sculpture. Every inch of the place is gilded or polished wood or carved in precious stone. It is breathtaking. The Papal Altar is the highlight with the baldacchino of bronze rising above it. The baldacchino, a canopy that is almost 100 feet tall, is Bernini’s masterpiece, which he began in 1624 and took nine years to complete. We were in awe. And just when I was thinking that it couldn’t get any better, in walks the Pope carrying the tall, white Paschal candle. Courtney and I were sitting approximately fifty feet from the Papal Altar, on the right-hand side, with nothing between us and the Holy Father except a lot of people, one of whom was the tallest man in the world. Working our way around Lurch (or Lurchio in Rome?), Courtney and I began shooting pictures, lots and lots of them, every time the Pope did so much as turn his head, hoping against hope that at least one of them would turn out. We were the Pope-arazzi. I was cursing myself for not bringing my Canon Digital Rebel XTi, but I’d decided to travel light. Who knew I’d end up sitting in the Vatican within XTi range of the Pope. I tried not to obsess over taking photographs and soak in the experience. I’m pretty sure my Presbyterian was showing, but I tried to follow along as we stood, sat, knelt, sat, knelt, stood, sat, responded, stood, sat, responded, and stood up again. During the mass, the Pope would go back and forth between the white beanie cap (I’m guessing that cap has an official name, but I don’t know it) and the gold, pointed mitre. I’m not sure why the mitre is repeatedly donned and removed, but it was cause for a lot of picture-taking on our parts nonetheless. The other thing that struck me was that during the service, the occasional cell phone would ring. In St. Peter’s Basilica. During mass. While the Pope was speaking. People’s cell phones would ring. Just like at the movies.


As it turned out, the mass lasted three and a half hours, and was mostly in Latin. Counting that we’d arrived an hour earlier, it was a long night. I made two critical errors that evening. The first was that I didn’t bring a water bottle. I got so thirsty that I considered swiping the water bottle that I spotted in the backpack of a little girl seated one row in front of us. However, considering the fact that the Pope himself might catch me stealing from a child, a Catholic child no less, it seemed like a very bad idea. My second error began to dawn on me as the mass was drawing to a conclusion. I thought about leaving ahead of the crowd since I couldn’t imagine that there would be enough taxis to go around without a very long wait, but the mass was just so darned compelling. The Pope baptized eight people, and gave them their first Holy Communion. There were responsive readings. Candles were lit. There was singing. Holy Communion was given to the congregation (well, the Catholic ones anyway). The Pope blessed everyone. We were glad we stayed. And when mass was over, thousands of my closest Catholic friends and I all wanted the same two cabs that were waiting in St. Peter’s Square. It was 1:30 AM. During Holy Week. Oops.
I had the bright idea that perhaps we’d be better off leaving the immediate area and finding a nearby taxi stand or bus stop. Then we wouldn’t be competing with the restless crowd in St. Peter’s Square. We stayed on well-lit streets and at first followed some nuns leading a group of school children. The nearby taxi stands were full of like-minded people and there were no taxis but the occasional one already occupied. I knew we were about seven miles from our hotel, but I had no idea what direction it was and no desire to walk there late at night. At one point we teamed up with two other women to try to share a taxi, and when one pulled over he offered to take them to their destination for twenty euro and us to our destination for another twenty euro. I readily agreed, but when one of the other ladies began to question whether that was fair, the taxi driver waved his fist and drove away. We decided to lose those two broads immediately. I thought if we could find a night bus (the tourist books said there were some), we could take it to Termini where we could then get a taxi. Finding a night bus to Termini would mean finding the right bus stop. The map we had was in Italian, and we could barely figure out where we were much less where the nearest bus stop might be. And would there even be a night bus on Easter? We had passed a hospital at one point, and I thought we might go back and feign ill to try to get a bed for the night. But I feared one of us might wake up trussed or covered in pecorino because the only Italian words I know come from menus, so we pressed on.
Taxis in Rome typically do not stop unless you are waiting at a cab stand, but desperate times called for desperate measures. We moved to a well-lit main street and then distanced ourselves somewhat from other people, hoping to get the advantage on any passing taxis while staying within earshot of others for safety. I concealed myself behind a parked car on the sidewalk and sent Courtney with her long, blonde hair to the curb to try to wave down a taxi. We watched as one couple a block up got a cab, so we felt there might be hope. We were wrong. All Courtney got was another “Bella! Bella!” By 2:30 AM, I was tired, severely dehydrated, and worried about the safety of Courtney since I’m old and the likelihood of an assailant picking me over her was slim. I kept my chin up, held my shoulders back, and tried to look strong and confident. I wanted my body language would send the message to any lurking criminals that I was not an easy mark and could protect my daughter. I’m guessing the white knuckles clutching my backpack would have given me away. Finally, I saw a police car, a glorious police car, and I waved it down. Well, I pretty much stepped in front of the moving vehicle and forced him to brake, but I got him to stop. One of the two officers even spoke English. I told him we were having trouble getting a taxi. He offered to give us the number of a taxi company. I asked if he’d wait there while we called. He said not to worry, we’d be safe. I told him we didn’t feel safe, we were lost, and I was worried for my daughter who was attracting some attention evidenced by the “Bella! Bella!” calls she’d been getting. He smiled and assured me that a taxi would come. I told him they do come, but they don’t stop. As luck because I’m dumb, or divine intervention because we stayed for the whole mass, or karma because I didn’t steal the little girl’s water, would have it, a taxi came by. The officer honked and waved. The taxi sped by. I said to the officer, “See what I mean? This has been happening to us all night.” I leaned into the police car and continued to talk in an effort to stall them until another taxi came by. Miraculously one pulled up to the red light and the officer honked, waved at the driver, and motioned for him to pick us up. We ran to the taxi and gratefully got inside. The taxi driver whisked us safely to our hotel, for ten euro, which included a generous tip. The driver told us that he had been done for the night and was on his way home, but only stopped because the officer had asked it of him. Whew! I was so glad to be back at our hotel that I could have kissed the doorman, except that it was 3 AM and he’d gone home. When we were snug in our room I told Courtney that it had been a close call, and it had not been in my plans for her to meet the Pope and God all on the same night.
Since we’d already been up close and personal with the Holy Father on Easter, for three and a half hours, we felt no need to deal with the crowds at St. Peter’s Square later that day. We felt that we’d been sufficiently blessed. The rest of our trip was eventful, but in a good way. I put up some of my
pictures from Rome over at
flickrthismom. We took a walking tour of the
Coliseum, which was way cool. We saw the
Arches of Constantine and Titus, the
Trevi Fountain, the
Pantheon, and the
Spanish Steps. We walked in
Villa Borghese and
Villa Medici. We shopped
along Via Condotti and the surrounding area.
Courtney ate gelato and I drank
Prosecco every day. We visited the
Vatican Museum and the
Sistine Chapel. Courtney has the distinction of being the person to make the loudest noise in history while falling down the steps leading into the Sistine Chapel. But that’s how Courtney rolls, no pun intended. I would have liked to have taken better pictures in the Sistine Chapel, but we were packed in like sardines and while being jostled about trying to shoot pictures of the
ceiling without getting our bags picked. Courtney and I understood the reasons for the no flash rule, and we followed that rule even though not a one of the other 9000 people with us in the Sistine Chapel did the same.
On the first day, I could not get over the fabulous architecture on virtually every building, and was intrigued by the fact that any window you’d look into had something more interesting in the reflection, so I took pictures and put them up at
flickrthismom in their own photoset,
Reflections di Roma. In some respects, we readily adapted according to local custom. We did not mind rising late for coffee, walking everywhere, stopping in at a café for a salad and Prosecco, walking some more, resting at our hotel, and then going out to dinner at nine o’clock at night. One thing that was hard for us to adapt to was how everyone in Rome strolls everywhere. And by stroll, I do not mean walk, I mean stroll as in mosey. In California, everyone buzzes around in cars at turbo speed to go one block. In London, everyone walks at turbo speed; you have to move it or lose it. In Rome, everything is done at a much slower pace, with a carefree demeanor. I began to adjust. Slowly. I began to enjoy the stroll. I brought that attitude home with me. And I held onto it for four days. Change can be good. Each time Courtney and I would experience something new, delightful or not, we’d say “When in Rome!” And we never got tired of the saying. Never. Well . . . that’s my story, and I’m stickin’ to it.
My time in Rome with my precious middle child indeed left me with memories to savor for the rest of my life. And I was reminded that Courtney is at once funny, energetic, adventurous, low-maintenance, self-sufficient and grateful. One could not ask for a more perfect traveling companion. On our last night in Rome, we were nestled into our beds trying to fall asleep. Our flight back to Heathrow was scheduled to depart early in the morning, but Courtney and I were having a hard time drifting off. I heard Courtney’s voice in the dark.
Courtney: “Mom, I had a really fun time. I’m going to miss you”
Mom: “Me too. Coco, I’m really going to miss you too.”
Courtney: “I know. When you get home, who will you have to drink wine and be giddy with?”
Mom (
sighs): “I have Trish.”
Courtney: “But can Trish lick her elbows?”
Mom (
giggles): “I don’t know. I’d have to ask her.”
Courtney: “Well, if she can, I’ll throw in the towel.”
